Toby Roberts sets a new standard for comp tenacity and excitement

The last man out on the final boulder was Toby Roberts, as he had won the semifinal. The 18-year-old is in the fourth position and even if he makes the zone and spends a long time approaching the top, on his first attempt, nothing changes, he remains fourth. On his third try, he makes the first crux again but starts struggling again trying to use both his knee and elbow behind a volume. Again it does not work and he tries a new beta for the finish with an extreme kneedrop and pushes to the next volume. The crowd and the commentators go wild and the music is pumping even louder. Inventing another new move he approaches the top and with a last toe hook he secures the top, with 15 seconds remaining on the clock and the whole crowd is on their feet screaming.

Talking to several athletes and also coaches, the common opinion was that this was possibly the most thrilling finish they have ever seen. Jongwon Chon, who has been on the WC circuit since 2013 and in fact saw his teammate lose his first position, commented. "I think this was the most impressive fight I have ever seen on a boulder."

The first question in the IFSC live-streaming interview was on the same theme. I think [this was] the best fight on a boulder I have ever seen, ever. How does it feel?
Words can’t explain it, I feel absolutely incredible. The fight on that last boulder, I have no words, I had to give it absolutely everything. I left it all on the boulder and I can’t quite believe I won my first World Cup. It’s so surreal.

"Because we see the scores in the back I knew I had to top, so I was just trying to stay calm and look at the boulder as just a boulder and not think about anything else, but it’s pretty hard when you are in that environment. The crowd was incredible and part of the reason I got up it."

All in all, it was a well-deserved victory for Toby as he on the second boulder touched the final hold.

1. Toby Roberts GBR 34
2. Dohyun Lee KOR 24 (3)
3. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 24 (5 & 6)
4. Meichi Narasaki JPN 24 (5 & 11)
5. Sorato Anraku JPN 22
6. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 12