Three girls injured on the same move in SLC

EDITORIAL

27 May 2022

During the qualifications in the Salt Lake City Boulder World Cup last weekend, (at least) three girls injured themself on the same move.

Jenya Kazbekova (#14 in the semi) injured her shoulder and could somewhat continue doing the semi and reported on Insta. " Yesterday, on the 4th boulder, while pressing up, I heard my shoulder pop, so I jumped off. I wasn't able to try that boulder anymore. I do want to mention that on that same move two more girls injured themselves. I really don't like that our sport is turning into Russian roulette, where you injure yourself or not..."

Sienna Kopf (tied #2 after three boulders) injured her elbow and will probably have 3+ months of recovery and reported on Insta,"Super proud of my climbing on the first 3 (flash, flash, and second go) but unfortunately hit a bit of a speed bump on #4 and hyperextended/strained my elbow trying to press up past zone …"

Johanna Färber (tied #2 after three boulders), in the picture on boulder four, will probably have 6+ weeks of recovery and commented on Insta. "Ruptured my ligament in my right ellbow while pushing through the fourth boulder."

Dr Björn Alber MsC Sports Physiology, Md sports medicine, former Swedish National Team Physician & Coach, comments: ”As previously described on 8a- you have to have an understanding of anatomy and normal range of motion to safely set boulder problems. I have earlier published examples of overstretching the elbow joint, overloading the fingers et.c. In the recent Salt Lake boulder competition we saw problem that due to setup- put to much stress on the shoulder and elbow joint stability and strength. The purpose of any boulder is to test the competitors ability not durability and it is not acceptable to provoke injury. My suggestion is that, at least on this high level, there should be a consultation with a physioterapeut before allowing moves that put extreme loads on the body when in vulnerable positions.

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