12 July 2020

Three 8c's by Molly Thompson-Smith

Molly Thompson-Smith, who was #7 in the World Cup in 2017 at age 19, has done three 8c's in Frankenjura the last six weeks.

"With no competitions up until now, and the GB Climbing Team not sending anyone to the upcoming World Cup events, as no climbing walls are open in the UK, I could focus on rock for more than short December trips to Spain for the first time ever! I’ve been with Jan (Hojer) in Germany since the U.K. lockdown began in March, and have been making the most of the lighter restrictions over here climbing on rock in the Frankenjura.

After the surgery I had on my finger in 2018, I didn’t think I’d ever climb in the FJ because of its intense and fingery style. So before our first trip I was a little nervous, but it didn’t take long for me to realize I really liked the short and powerful style. I’ve just been picking routes I’m psyched for and trying to do them quickly (mostly within a session or two) rather than choosing any long term projects. I’ve not really done that much on rock so I wanted to get more comfortable with the process of climbing something- it’s pretty different to comps!

It was cool to be able to do some 8c’s and 8b+‘s fairly quickly and this has given me a confidence boost in my current shape as well as motivation for more. I'd like to try some 8c+‘s or 9a’s this summer just to see what they feel like! We’re back to the Frankenjura again next week and then maybe on to Céüse. I’ve never been there before and I’m sure I’ve been missing out on some great climbing! "


0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…