12 July 2020
Three 8c's by Molly Thompson-Smith
Molly Thompson-Smith, who was #7 in the World Cup in 2017 at age 19, has done three 8c's in Frankenjura the last six weeks.
"With no competitions up until now, and the GB Climbing Team not sending anyone to the upcoming World Cup events, as no climbing walls are open in the UK, I could focus on rock for more than short December trips to Spain for the first time ever! Iโve been with Jan (Hojer) in Germany since the U.K. lockdown began in March, and have been making the most of the lighter restrictions over here climbing on rock in the Frankenjura.
After the surgery I had on my finger in 2018, I didnโt think Iโd ever climb in the FJ because of its intense and fingery style. So before our first trip I was a little nervous, but it didnโt take long for me to realize I really liked the short and powerful style. Iโve just been picking routes Iโm psyched for and trying to do them quickly (mostly within a session or two) rather than choosing any long term projects. Iโve not really done that much on rock so I wanted to get more comfortable with the process of climbing something- itโs pretty different to comps!
It was cool to be able to do some 8cโs and 8b+โs fairly quickly and this has given me a confidence boost in my current shape as well as motivation for more. I'd like to try some 8c+โs or 9aโs this summer just to see what they feel like! Weโre back to the Frankenjura again next week and then maybe on to Cรฉรผse. Iโve never been there before and Iโm sure Iโve been missing out on some great climbing! "
"With no competitions up until now, and the GB Climbing Team not sending anyone to the upcoming World Cup events, as no climbing walls are open in the UK, I could focus on rock for more than short December trips to Spain for the first time ever! Iโve been with Jan (Hojer) in Germany since the U.K. lockdown began in March, and have been making the most of the lighter restrictions over here climbing on rock in the Frankenjura.
After the surgery I had on my finger in 2018, I didnโt think Iโd ever climb in the FJ because of its intense and fingery style. So before our first trip I was a little nervous, but it didnโt take long for me to realize I really liked the short and powerful style. Iโve just been picking routes Iโm psyched for and trying to do them quickly (mostly within a session or two) rather than choosing any long term projects. Iโve not really done that much on rock so I wanted to get more comfortable with the process of climbing something- itโs pretty different to comps!
It was cool to be able to do some 8cโs and 8b+โs fairly quickly and this has given me a confidence boost in my current shape as well as motivation for more. I'd like to try some 8c+โs or 9aโs this summer just to see what they feel like! Weโre back to the Frankenjura again next week and then maybe on to Cรฉรผse. Iโve never been there before and Iโm sure Iโve been missing out on some great climbing! "
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