Things that are trained too much and too little
EDITORIAL
22 January 2022
Resting: Training on how to best hang on holds in order to recover.
Technical: Training different styles that you seldom use, your anti-style.
Tactical: Spend some minutes on route reading before and after you climbed a route together with a friend.
Yoga/Stretching: Several moves will be much easier to do if you are flexible.
Mental: Talk to your friends and analyse your strong points in general and when you surprised them.
Falling: Start each session by taking some shortfalls. Make your belayer improve how to belay.
Complimentary: Make some push and pull-ups as well as sit-ups several times a day at home.
The only extra training, outside the gym, that is less beneficial is running. Sure, a few minutes running before and after a session is good practice but jogging a couple of hours every week can be counterproductive. "Long distance running will just build up your capillary bed in your legs learning your blood circulation to redirect it from your forearms. The worst warming up is done, running or cycling, to your gym getting cold fingertips as you instead of opening up your capillaries, you close them learning your blood to avoid the forearms."
FAVOURITES
19 May 2022
Seb Bouin and his (9c) grading
Sebastien Bouin has done some 60 routes 9a and harder out of which 25 are FAs, including DNA 9c in Verdon which he did last month. Interestingly none of these F…
16 May 2022
Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b
Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…
17 May 2022
Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story
In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …
MOST COMMENTED
17 May 2022
Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story
In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …
16 May 2022
Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b
Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…
EDITORIAL
27 May 2022
Three girls injured on the same move in SLC
During the qualifications in the Salt Lake City Boulder World Cup last weekend, (at least) three girls injured themself on the same move. Jenya Kazbekova (#14 i…
FAVORITES
19 May 2022
Seb Bouin and his (9c) grading
Sebastien Bouin has done some 60 routes 9a and harder out of which 25 are FAs, including DNA 9c in Verdon which he did last month. Interestingly none of these F…
16 May 2022
Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b
Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…
17 May 2022
Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story
In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …