Things that are trained too much and too little

EDITORIAL

22 January 2022

It is natural that climbers focus on power training as you can quickly measure it. Such training is also found everywhere on the internet. Here are some quick thoughts on things that I think are usually trained too little, meaning that such training will give you the fastest progress.

Resting: Training on how to best hang on holds in order to recover.
Technical: Training different styles that you seldom use, your anti-style.
Tactical: Spend some minutes on route reading before and after you climbed a route together with a friend.
Yoga/Stretching: Several moves will be much easier to do if you are flexible.
Mental: Talk to your friends and analyse your strong points in general and when you surprised them.
Falling: Start each session by taking some shortfalls. Make your belayer improve how to belay.
Complimentary: Make some push and pull-ups as well as sit-ups several times a day at home.

The only extra training, outside the gym, that is less beneficial is running. Sure, a few minutes running before and after a session is good practice but jogging a couple of hours every week can be counterproductive. "Long distance running will just build up your capillary bed in your legs learning your blood circulation to redirect it from your forearms. The worst warming up is done, running or cycling, to your gym getting cold fingertips as you instead of opening up your capillaries, you close them learning your blood to avoid the forearms."

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