
17 October 2024
Thilo Schrรถter FAโs Tsunami (8C+)
Thilo Schrรถter, who over ten days in August, sent five boulders 8B+ or 8C, reports on Instagram that he has made the FA of Tsunami (8C+) in Lofoten. It is almost ten meters high with the crux at four meters.
"This is the boulder Iโve invested the most passion into, ever. Itโs also one of the most beautiful and perfect lines I have seen. The difficulty and challenge it presented was exactly what I was looking for. Too good to be true type shit.
The day I sent was another one of those classic Lofoten days with constant showers. I was certain that I wouldnโt be able to give proper attempts, and in my mind I was just having another training session. All of a sudden a strong wind picked up. After a while the rock on the ground which I used as a reference for how wet the top would be, started to look relatively dry. I saw a slight opportunity, and started giving goes. Every go felt better than the last, and on my third attempt of the day I stuck the crux move! Psyched out of my mind I found myself standing on the ledge at the bottom of the slab, which was still a little humid. After waiting for at least a minute to get rid of the shakiness, I turned my focus back up to max, and started questing up to the top. It went smoothly. I took a minute to soak up the moment overlooking the rugged landscape, before I realised that another storm was charging in over the fjords. While rappelling down it started raining again. I stood on the pads looking at the boulder in disbelief - timing couldnโt have been any better."
"This is the boulder Iโve invested the most passion into, ever. Itโs also one of the most beautiful and perfect lines I have seen. The difficulty and challenge it presented was exactly what I was looking for. Too good to be true type shit.
The day I sent was another one of those classic Lofoten days with constant showers. I was certain that I wouldnโt be able to give proper attempts, and in my mind I was just having another training session. All of a sudden a strong wind picked up. After a while the rock on the ground which I used as a reference for how wet the top would be, started to look relatively dry. I saw a slight opportunity, and started giving goes. Every go felt better than the last, and on my third attempt of the day I stuck the crux move! Psyched out of my mind I found myself standing on the ledge at the bottom of the slab, which was still a little humid. After waiting for at least a minute to get rid of the shakiness, I turned my focus back up to max, and started questing up to the top. It went smoothly. I took a minute to soak up the moment overlooking the rugged landscape, before I realised that another storm was charging in over the fjords. While rappelling down it started raining again. I stood on the pads looking at the boulder in disbelief - timing couldnโt have been any better."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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