
25 March 2018
There will be more down gradings around Lleida
Throughout the years, 8a has repeatedly said that the grades are too soft around Lleida. Until now, at least a quarter of the popular 8c's and harder are subject of being down graded and possibly 10 % have already been. The reason why we could speculate in down gradings were; High number of personal best and personal down grades, many marked routes as "soft" and also that some guys have been whispering to us.
Based on more such recent info, it just might be that within two years the official down grades will have doubled as there might be a chain reaction when the grade brick of some popular routes will be placed one step below.
The dilemma is of course that it does not feel awkward to spread "fake" news reporting ascents based on a too high grade. To get around this we sometimes report 9a (8c+). At the same time it is important to say that we do understand climbers who just take the topo grade in order to not offend friends etc.
A good example of the down grading dilemma is Mind control, see picture by (c) M. Leลniewski, which we already in 2013 said it should 8c. One year earlier, Gabri Moroni commented in his scorecard, "Everybody knows it's only 8c...but nobody will ever downgrade it :-P."
The easiest way to predict down gradings is simply by looking for the most repeated routes, as many climbers, like water, naturally are looking for the easiest way to their destination.
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



