5 April 2018
A Speed specialist could get a medal in Tokyo
With a strong correlation in the results among the best in the three disciplines in Tokyo 2020, the best male Speed specialist could in theory get the silver just by touching the first hold in Boulder and Lead. The results from the last Combined Youth World Championships confirms the chance/risk for this to happen, although it is more likely that the best Speed specialist will become #7 or 8.
The prediction is based on that there will be a couple male Speed specialists in Tokyo 2020. They will qualify through getting at least 300-350 points in the World Cup 2019 and then, in the Top-20 qualification special event, these guys could get their Olympic tickets by scoring 1 * 18 * 20 etc, as Japan and another country will fill their country quota already in the World Championship. In the Olympics, the multiplication score will be the same meaning that the speed winner might be Top-6. In the final, he would actually have a great chance of getting the bronze and he/she could in theory get the silver through scoring 1 * 6 * 6.
In other words, in practice, the Speed specialist could totally skip training Boulder and Lead what so ever and still get a medal in Tokyo.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



