
25 December 2015
The Story of Two Worlds has been glued
Niccolo Ceria comes with the sad news that somebody has glued one hold of David Graham's classic The Story of Two Worlds 8C in Cresciano. Being asked about his opinion based on the fact that the breakage could have meant it would have been easier or harder, Nico answered as follows.
I don't care about what it would have happened. It is not a problem if it would have been easier, harder or impossibile. I think If something has to break naturally, it doesnยt need any glue."
8a agrees with Nico that boulders should not be glued. On the other hand, 8a thinks that for the routes with artificial bolts, where often a hammer is used to clean the loose rock, it could sometimes be OK to use glue on an old line, especially as a broken hold can fall on someone's head.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Four 8As by Niccolรฒ Ceria (15)
Niccolo Ceria (15) has done four 8As in two days in Varazze and Chironico including Dreamtime stand which most have as a 8A+.
18 October 2009
Five 8A's < by Niccolรฒ Ceria (16)
Niccolo Ceria has over two weekends done five 8A's and harder including Freak Brothers, 8A+ in Chironico. The 16-year-old is #10 in the Junior Boulder ranking.
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8B again by Niccolรฒ Ceria (16)
Niccolo Ceria has done his second 8B, Gioia stand in Varazze. The 16-year-old was listed on the Upcommers 2010 list and after this ascent, he is also on the 2009 list. Last year, Christian Core put up Gioia with a suggested grade of 8C.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


