31 December 2020

The Story of 2 Worlds 8B+? and ...4 Worlds 9A?

Dave Graham put up The Story of 2 Worlds in Cresciano in 2005 as, "The new 8C standard" in order to stop grade inflation. It actually did, although UKC called it 8C+, when Dai Koyamada did the first repeat in 2010. Then in 2011, UKC said Dai's "wasn't legitimate" and in 2012, he flew in again from Japan and did it from a lower start calling that variation 8C+. (Later Graham said Dai had originally started correctly.)

By the use of knee pads and shoes with better toe-hooking possibilities as well as going to the left instead of the right finishing the roof, some started to say it was a "soft" 8C. Then in 2018, Sebastian Cotting did it from the Koyamada's 8C+ lower start suggesting that it is closer to 8B+, video.

Chatting with Dave he says he also thinks that in a world with rubber on the knees and the toes, it is like this creates the third story that could make it possibly 8B+. "This is a normal evolution for an old problem with features like this. People say it is much easier obviously but I'm not sure as I haven't done it with the kneepads or with new shoes." The picture is from back in 2005 where we can see Dave shoes had poor toe-hooking possibilities.

Now it seems like there also exist a potential Story of 4 Worlds 9A? " There is a very long section starting on the left that adds probably 8B+ or 8C to join with The story of two worlds!! Surprised no one tries this more!"

In general, he thinks furthermore, "You can see many hard problems with lots of fast repetitions are done because of beta changes and knee pads etc, but seldom the grades are commented. We don't see much downgrading anymore, only confirmations, in boulders at least. It will change again with another generation I assume."
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