15 April 2020

The start and development of sport climbing

1978 - Drilling bolts on rappell Jacques Nosley drilled bolts manually on Dingomaniaque, 6c+ in Verdon, as he was rappelling down in 1978. Some define this as the very start of the sport climbing era. Previously, hand-drilled bolts had been placed but only on lead. The rappelling created a big controversy in the community but nevertheless the sport climbing ethics were quickly spread in Europe and came to USA in 1983. Picture from the French magazine, Alpinisme in 1979, the Dingomaniaque! Other important development which had impact of the start of sportclimbing 1910 The first Climbing Carabiner 1927 The first rock drill and expansion bolts 1955 John Gill Introduces Chalk 1974 First indoor gym in Bolzano 1970s Kurt Albert introduced red point 1975 First sticky shoe on the market, (EB and Asolo etc) 1985 1st official competition, Bardonecchia 1980s Chak is getting popular 1991 The belay device GriGri 1990s The Crash Pad commercialized 2021 Olympic Sport in Tokyo
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ