The Speed experts were dead wrong

In 2015, 8a asked some of the very best Speed climbers how difficult it would be for the non-Speed specialist to reach a very good standard. Based on the times of Tomoa Narasaki and Rishat Khaibullin, they were actually dead wrong.

"In order to go below eight seconds, you probably need to do specific physical training for a year and also do many competitions, which would get you to understanding how to deal with the mental pressure. To get below 7 seconds in Tokyo 2020 you need to focus half of your training on Speed as well as gaining some weight in the whole body. Thus you will also have to deal with the mental pressure that your standard in Lead and Boulder will deteriorate and you will have to climb outdoors less."

It just might be that in reality, if all the best Lead and Boulder competitors would only go for Speed for one year, they would totally take over the scene and you had to run 5.6 or so to be Top-10. The reason for this is of course that the best Speed climbers of today are just the best of some few hundreds meanwhile the best Lead and Boulderers are the best out of several millions. The talent pole is thus several hundred times less creating the best Speed climbersof today.