27 June 2021
The risk for a Speed bronze has increased
Aleksandra Miroslaw travelled all the way to Salt Lake City where she won the Speed event while she chose not to participate in Boulder. This will be her only competition before the Olympics as she has not registered for Villars. Iuliia Kaplina skipped Boulder and Lead in Innsbruck while she won the Euro Cup in Speed. She is signed up for Speed in Villars but will not do Lead. It seems that some of the best Speed specialists have done their math and skip any competition preparation whatsoever in the other two disciplines.
This is of course a logical strategy as the winner of Speed will be #4 or #5 in Tokyo even if they are dead last in the other two disciplines. Based on the results in 2021, where the Tokyo Combined favourites have strengthened their positions in all three disciplines, the risk for a Speed specialist getting the bronze has increased. As a matter of fact, it only takes that two Speed specialists are Top-2 in Speed during the qualifications while the favourites deliver good results in all three disciplines. If both Miroslaw and Kaplina make it to the Top-8 final, there is a great chance/risk that one of them will take the bronze scoring 1 * 7 * 7 = 49. When it comes to the males, also the favourites have strengthened their positions in 2021 and that goes especially for Tomoa Narasaki who several times has done sub six seconds. In other words, he could win both the qualification and Final in Speed which will almost guarantee him a bronze and make him the big favourite for the gold.
On the other hand, with the new male world record and several training times close to five seconds, it just might be that the Olympics will make several guys doing close to five seconds in Tokyo.
This is of course a logical strategy as the winner of Speed will be #4 or #5 in Tokyo even if they are dead last in the other two disciplines. Based on the results in 2021, where the Tokyo Combined favourites have strengthened their positions in all three disciplines, the risk for a Speed specialist getting the bronze has increased. As a matter of fact, it only takes that two Speed specialists are Top-2 in Speed during the qualifications while the favourites deliver good results in all three disciplines. If both Miroslaw and Kaplina make it to the Top-8 final, there is a great chance/risk that one of them will take the bronze scoring 1 * 7 * 7 = 49. When it comes to the males, also the favourites have strengthened their positions in 2021 and that goes especially for Tomoa Narasaki who several times has done sub six seconds. In other words, he could win both the qualification and Final in Speed which will almost guarantee him a bronze and make him the big favourite for the gold.
On the other hand, with the new male world record and several training times close to five seconds, it just might be that the Olympics will make several guys doing close to five seconds in Tokyo.
3 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


