The qualifications are what counts in Toulouse

On Thursday, the Olympic male qualification starts in Toulouse with Speed at 11.00 followed 13.00 with Bouldering and finishes at 16.45 with Lead. There are 22 male participants, out of which 18 battles for six tickets to Tokyo. Japan comes with four male but they have already filled their country quota. In theory, it might be good enough to be #12 also France and Germany might fill their quota. The Top-8 go to the final meaning, it is the qualification day that counts and the final day is most probably just a formality training of the Olympic final format. As the result is based on multiplication, it is almost 100 % certain that qually winners in each disciplin will make it to the Olympics. In practice, also the runner ups are expected to get a ticket. Here is the 8a speculation for who will get a ticket to Tokyo. The reason why there are so many male Lead specialists is because most of the Japanese are boulder specialists and also rather good in Speed. In other words, if Japan gets the two first positions in Boulder and perform also in Speed, three Lead specialists and Adam Ondra are expected to get high up in the ranking. 1. Adam Ondra CZE - Lucka Rakovec SLO 2. Bassa Mawem FRA - YiLing Song CHN 3. Alberto Gines Lopez ESP - YueTong Sang CHN 4. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA - Jain Kim KOR 5. Sasha Lehmann SUI - Julia Chanourdie FRA 6. Alfian Muhammed INA - Anouck Jaubert FRA A very interesting side note is how Adam Ondra performance in Speed. His current PB is 7.87 at the same time as most are under 7 seconds. If Adam does not come close to seven seconds, it just might be strategically to skip serious Speed training. With the multiplication system, it does not matter so much if you are #15 or #20 in the qually or #7 or #8 in the final.