6 June 2016
The media exaggerate grades
During the last week, UKC has four times chosen to report higher grades than had been suggested.
1. Megos - Hubble 9a even if Megos compared it to an 8c+.
2. Schrรถter - 8B flash even if a half of the repeaters has given it 8A+ lately.
3. Barrows - The Wheel of Life 8C even if Alex said consensus was 8B+
4. Honnold - The Complete Scream E8 even if they previously said it was E7
Some 15 years ago, 8a said that a grade inflation had started. It is natural for climbers and the media to take the higher grades as it creates better headlines. On the other side, it devalues ascents based on real grades. In general, it is on 8a where you first can read about a new lower grade which often becomes consensus in other media.
Grades are the #1 criteria for the media when telling how important the ascent was and if we do not try to report correct grades, i.e. keep the low ones, the deflation will just continue. Another example of this unfavorable trend is when Rock & Ice said Mind Control was an 8c+ without mentioning that lately many thought it was an 8c.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


