12 December 2017
The Japaneses and Janja will dominate in 2018 even more
In regards to the IFSC 2017 review her are some thoughts on 2018.
1. Even stronger domination by the Japaneses which in practice means they will normally have 50 % of the finalists in Bouldering and 25 % in Lead.
2. Janja Garnbret will continue her extreme overall domination.
3. Most of the guys 25+ focusing on the Olympic combination will decline in their best discipline like Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi.
4. The best boulderers like Chon, Narasaki and Coxsey will frequently make the final in Lead but the best Lead climbers will continue to struggle in Boulder.
5. Adam Ondra will dominate in the World Champion as ever winning the combination although not go below 10 seconds in Speed.
6. The trend with more volumes in both Lead and Boulder will increase.
7. Sub 7 seconds by some Japaneses who also will dominate in Speed
8. Alex Megos will kick ass in Lead and Boulder.
9. The Italians will continue their progress trend
0. Records in # of participants, live-streaming and general media coverage
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ