The Island, 8B+ by Jan Hojer

Jan hojer finished of a very succesful 2012 by doing Dave Graham's The Island, 8B+ in Fontainebleau. Now he is working the lower Big start adding one grade. The next week he will start training for the World Cup where his ambition is around #5 overall. How much and how do you train? I'm often alternating weeks with many sessions (4-5) and less intensive weeks with only 2 sessions, depending on how i feel. A session rarely takes longer than two hours... I agree what Tyler Landman says about training, " "My tip for getting stronger is to climb steep, straight angles, 30-45 degrees; big moves between bad holds, where you must keep your feet on. This develops footwork and body tension. No heel hooks, toe hooks or anything like that, just basic straightforward pulling". Sometimes he also does five seconds front lever in his pinkies!