
12 October 2022
The Full Journey 9b FA by Alex Megos
Alex Megos reports on Insta that he has done the FA of The Full Journey 9b in Margalef. The 35m route was bolted by Tom Bolger who did the FA of the first pitch, The Journey 9a in April. Last week, Alex made the second repeat, and then he needed six more days to do the full line. It has been estimated that the 17m extension is 9a in its own right. (c) Meri Mendez
"The first part is pure power-endurance on mostly two finger pockets with a hard mono move in the middle. The second part is a boulder with a rather violent dead point move to a mono and a few more hard moves after. If it wasn't for the good rest between the two parts this route would definitely be next level. With the rest it's still hard though. Both parts fit my style very well I'd say, so I'm curious to hear what repeaters think."
The German has done some 100 odd routes 9a and harder out of which six are 9b, or 9b+, meaning he has the second-best track record in the world after Adam Ondra. He is also well-known for being the first climber to onsight a 9a. When it comes to comps, he has been one of the best since he started to compete in 2008 as a junior. In 2018, he took the bronze in the World Championship, and in 2019, the silver. During the last two years, he has done half of the World Cups and twice made the podium.
"The first part is pure power-endurance on mostly two finger pockets with a hard mono move in the middle. The second part is a boulder with a rather violent dead point move to a mono and a few more hard moves after. If it wasn't for the good rest between the two parts this route would definitely be next level. With the rest it's still hard though. Both parts fit my style very well I'd say, so I'm curious to hear what repeaters think."
The German has done some 100 odd routes 9a and harder out of which six are 9b, or 9b+, meaning he has the second-best track record in the world after Adam Ondra. He is also well-known for being the first climber to onsight a 9a. When it comes to comps, he has been one of the best since he started to compete in 2008 as a junior. In 2018, he took the bronze in the World Championship, and in 2019, the silver. During the last two years, he has done half of the World Cups and twice made the podium.
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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