20 August 2019

The first round is most important in the Speed final

During the Combined Speed Final there are 12 races out of which the battle of the #7 position has the least impact, i.e. a factor 1.14 difference in your overall score. This can be compared to the final battle in between #1 position where the difference is 2. During the first round where you are decided to become 1 - 4 or 5 - 8 the average result is 2.5 verses 6.5, i.e. 2.6 factor difference. One example of this is the race in between Futaba Ito, #2 in the qualification and Shauna Coxey #7. Futaba was ahead until she slipped and Coxsey was the lucky winner. In all other rounds, Futaba was much quicker compared to Coxsey, however Futaba ended #5 and Shauna #2, i.e. 2.5 difference in the multiplication format. It is kind of strange that when the Ai Mori and Akiyo Noguchi were about the battle of the #7 position, the commentators marketed it to have "massive impact of the rankings" at the same time this superlative was not used for any other of the 12 races. The commentators said that if you made a false start in any of the rounds but the last run, you would end up as #8. This should not be true but if it is, the rule must be changed.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ