The first 9a+ to 9c

EDITORIAL

Thursday, 13 August

In 2001, Chris Sharma made the FA of Realization which later was re-named to Biographie in accordance with the French tradition that the bolter, should choose the name. Sharma did not grade it but it has always been considered as a 9a+ although Ethan Pringle, doing the third repeat, originally logged it as a hard 9a. The start has been slightly harder due to a break. For some reason, it has by media been called the first 9a+ although since 2008, Open Air by Alex Huber, has been considered 9a+ based on Adam Ondras's first repeat and upgrade. Also Huber have later said that based on the grade inflation, Open Air, with just one repeat, should be given 9a+.

It should also be mentioned that in in 1998, Bernabe Fernandez did Orujo 9a+, which has no repeats. This route has not made it to the official history books, probably due to the Chilam Balam controvercy see below. Furthermore, it has been said that the FA, beside chipping, actually filled some holds which he did not use, so others could not use it either.

When it comes to 9b, the first getting that proposal was Akira in 1995 by Fred Rouhling and Ali Hulk sit extension in 2007 by Dani Andrada but they should be called boulder routes as they include a sit start. Then we have Chilam Balam, which was suggested 9b+ in 2003 by Bernabe Fernandez. But as many repeaters have said 9a+/b and that the FA'ionist never cooperated with the media, it might be that Jumbo Love by Chris Sharma in 2008 should be considered as the first 9b in the world.

The first 9b+ in the world is Change in Flatanger in 2012 and it has never been repeated.
The first and 9c in the world is Silence in Flatanger in 2017 and it has never been repeated. Both those routes were opened by Adam Ondra.

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