11 August 2020
The first 8c+ (8c+/9a) and 9a in history books
Hubble by Ben Moon in 1990 and Action Directe by Wolfgang Gรผllich in 1991 are generally called the first 8c+ and 9a in the world. Originally, AD was graded XI, which converts to 8c+/9a but since the first repititions some 20 years ago, it was considered 9a.
When it comes to Hubble, some of the best climbers like Ondra have said it might be 9a and both Ben Moon and UKC have actually called it the first 9a in the world. In practice and in order to save some of the history, Hubble could be given 8c+/9a and the first route to be listed with a slash grade in the grade progression list. This means that Liquid Amber 8c by Jerry Moffatt in 1990, with only three repeats, could be the first 8c+ in the world, as it has been upgraded.
When it comes to Hubble, some of the best climbers like Ondra have said it might be 9a and both Ben Moon and UKC have actually called it the first 9a in the world. In practice and in order to save some of the history, Hubble could be given 8c+/9a and the first route to be listed with a slash grade in the grade progression list. This means that Liquid Amber 8c by Jerry Moffatt in 1990, with only three repeats, could be the first 8c+ in the world, as it has been upgraded.
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8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ