The elimination problem - "Can I use that hold?"

Eliminations are quite common at the same time it reduces the quality of a climb. One elimination definition could be that you need to be within reach of the bolts another rule is that you are not allowed to use holds on neighbouring routes or boulders. One dilemma is that such definitions are not fair based on different sizes of the climbers, especially when you climb onsight.

Personally, I am more liberal and I think that you, first of all, are being challenged by the rock and not how the bolter has placed the bolts. It might be that you can not say you did repeat the listed climb and grade in the topo but actually made a FA of an easier climb if you did go too long to the side. Sure in many cases, the eliminations are obvious but in most cases, they are in the grey zone.

I think, in general, taller guys should be allowed to place their feet further out as long as they are following the sequences of the climb. In many cases, using handholds to the side as intermediates should also be considered as ok. However, if you move further out to the side and do not follow the "graded" sequences, one might say you have not repeated the original route and grade.

To sum up, climbs with eliminations should not be considered as a high-quality routes especially, when instructions are needed to understand which holds are ok to use. The best style of climbing is onsight and you should never ask, "Can I use that hold?". You are challenged by the rock! Taller climbers are allowed to go further out following the same sequences as the original graded ones.