The Big Island 8C (B+) by Antonie Kaufmann

Antoine Kaufmann, whose previous best is No Pain No Gain 9a+, has done The Big Island 8C (B+) in Fontainebleau. Last week, Lucien Martinez was the first of 20+ repeaters calling it 8B+, and Kaufmann agrees on his Insta. "About the grade, it would be easy to achieve one of my biggest dreams taking it as an 8C but it wouldn't be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+." (c) Gilles Charlier

How many sessions did it take and what about the sit start?
I have not taken the count for the session but definitely way to much. 15 to 20? Actually, I felt at the very last move for the edge at my 7-8th session but then the troubles began. The weather turned bad, I ripped my skin, had to find new beta, felt after the crimp where it supposes to get easier 29 times, etc. Finally, conditions improved and I could send it. The sit is more about a future goal for the next season. I have seen many tries in the sit by my friend Simon Lorenzi, and by the two strong French guys, Camille Coudert and Nico Pelorson. It gave me a lot of motivation to try the sit next year because it suits my style really well. But first I need to train!

What is the hardest boulder you have done before and what is next?
The hardest boulder I send before Big island was General disarray an 8B in Brione (last year). I see bouldering as a way to get stronger in lead, that’s why it’s quite new for me to push myself in bouldering.

I go to Flatanger this summer, I would like to try a long term project. Move (9b+) is the main goal because this line made me dream for years now and I think it suits me really well. Maybe it’s too ambitious for this year maybe not... we will see in September!