The Big Island 8C (B+) by Lucien Martinez

Fanatic Climbing reports that Lucien Martinez from Grimper Magazine has done The Big Island in Fontainebleau, calling it his first 8B+ boulder. The classical boulder was originally put up by Dave Graham as an 8C. Later, in 2010, Vincent Pochon added two more moves in the start. Today it is the most repeated 8C in the world with 20+ ascents. (c) Stephan Denys

"This boulder has everything to be a classic. The movements are magical, it dries very quickly which is a good point in Font where it’s raining often, and the official grade of 8C is extremely soft which is also a big advantage for making a boulder a classic."

Interestingly, there is a 10 moves 8B+ sit start which has been tried for several years. Nico Pelorson and Camille Coudert are currently working on it and, as a matter of fact, Simon Lorenzi has fallen on the very last moves.

Martinez, who needed some 20 sessions to take it down, explains that The Big Island is not a physical challenge but rather a technical. He does not consider himself as a boulderer but rather a route climber, having previously done some ten 9a's. His big project is Fight or Flight 9b.