13 October 2021

The Big Island 8C and Belial 8B+ by Nico Januel (38)

Nico Januel, who is working as the French coach in the World Cups, has done his fifth 8C, The Big Island in Fontainebleau. In his Insta video he reviels a new toe-hook beta for the 1.7 meter tall guys. "It took me about 12/15 short sessions to find the beta and connect it. I worked a bit during this summer to be ready when the friction will be ok. So thatโ€™s good! ;-)"

Last week he also did Belial 8B+ in Fontainebleau on his first session this year after having worked it for five sessions last year.

How come you are peaking now at age 38 and what is next?
Maybe I am trying harder ;-) Would like to boulder 8C+ for sure and some big projects on the cliff for the winter, back in Buoux soon.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ