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The best training is personal 

Click to Enlarge PictureOver the years, I have checked and asked possibly around 100 athletes and at least 20 coaches to understand what is the best training practice. In general, there is actually no mainstream idea but instead many different approaches. This means that you should not try to copy the ideas from just one athlete or coach randomly but instead try as many regimes as possible before you will find what suites you best.

However, what has struck me most is that the best male like Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Daniel Woods are that they did not followed any training regime being teenagers. They just followed their passion and climbed as much as possible living the moment instead of just focusing on short term progress.

The other thing that have made extreme impression is watching and talking with the Japanese athletes over the years. They can not stop playing around having fun together. After the final in Munich 2017, when everyone had left for the party, they continued trying the final boulders in their sneakers for an hour until their hands were bleeding.

Thirdly, Jernej Kruder won the Boudering World Cup in 2018 did contrary to most of the successful boulderers not focus on indoors. Instead of power training and jumping around on volumes indoors, he spent many hours sport climbing, DWS, bolting and even doing vertical multi-pitches, see picture.

On the other hand, there are several athletes that have been successful following extreme training programs mainly training alone. In other words, the best training is individual and you better start trying them all. It seems it does not matter so much what you do as long as you are so motivated so you put in as many hours possible.