20 October 2022

The best climber might not always win in Combined

Oriane Bertone won the Boulder event in the Combined qualification in Morioka WC with 99.3 points as she needed eleven attempts to complete all four boulder problems valued at 25-points a piece. The runner-up was Natalia Grossman with 84.7 points followed by Brooke Raboutou 84.5 points. However, if this would have been a Bouldering World Cup, Brooke, who needed only four attempts for the three tops she did, would have been ranked ahead of Natalia who needed five attempts.

In other words, how the IFSC has ranked boulderers in World Cups for 20+ years no longer applies to Boulder & Lead World Cups.

Let us, for argument's sake, say that later Natalia, in the Lead event, makes it to the second to last hold getting 96.0 and then Brooke dynos to the Top jug but cannot hold the swing, meaning she gets 96.1 points. Overall, Natalia beats Brooke with 0.1 points although Brooke has climbed better in both disciplines, see the calculation below.

Natalia 3T4Z 5 attempts: 84.7 points + 96.0 points = 190.7 points
Brooke 3T4Z 4 attempts: 84.5 points + 96.1 points = 190.6 points

In the men's division a similar point scoring scenario has played out where Taisei Homma was ranked #8 but using the Boulder World Cup scoring, he would have been #6.

Thus far, the new 0.1 points Combined scoring rule has had no impact on the overall result as the Lead score differed enough for this scenario to not come into play, but the risk of such an outcome remains.
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