8 September 2021
"The best climber is the one having most fun (Climbing the most)"
Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world. He might also be one of the guys having climbed most meters/moves per year during the last twenty years. Training plans are getting more popular, but they can also be quite boring and limited if you are not just in it for the short-term progress. If you instead are interested in long-term progress, creating a climbing lifestyle, it might be a good idea to just focus on the fun part making you climbing more meters/moves.
Sure it is super fun to try new training plans and feel quick progress but the dilemma is that you can get too addicted to it. This may make you less likely to appreciate other parts of climbing such as nature, adrenaline, friendship, onsighting and just climbing easier routes and boulders.
It should be mentioned that history shows that there is actually a big risk of kids stopping climbing if they have had coaches/parents just focusing on competitions or redpoint projects. Instead, the best piece of advice for kids is to climb easier routes in order to appreciate also this side in their new climbing life.
Sure it is super fun to try new training plans and feel quick progress but the dilemma is that you can get too addicted to it. This may make you less likely to appreciate other parts of climbing such as nature, adrenaline, friendship, onsighting and just climbing easier routes and boulders.
It should be mentioned that history shows that there is actually a big risk of kids stopping climbing if they have had coaches/parents just focusing on competitions or redpoint projects. Instead, the best piece of advice for kids is to climb easier routes in order to appreciate also this side in their new climbing life.
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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