Ten Criminals 8C FA by Théo Chappex (39)

Fanatic Climbing reports with an interview that Théo Chappex, who turns 40 within a month, has made the FA of Ten Criminals in Valais. In 2018, he opened his first 8C and also started projecting his second which took him some 40-50 sessions. The line is 16 moves long and starts sitting with an 8A+/B sequence followed by an 8B without transition and the end shares the last moves with an 8B+ which he did in 2016. (c) Marie Dorsaz

"Sometimes I was fed up with these movements that I knew by heart, but I had invested too much time to give up… Then finally the motivation returned, with better physical shape, and it finally worked! I suspect that the arrival of a Moonboard at home has something to do with it… During the first session this season I felt that I was more powerful in the cruxs and that gave me confidence."