Vertical-Life
Tara Hayes completes Fat Lip (8B)
”I first tried Fat Lip back in May to see if it was a realistic project for me close to home. Both of the crux moves revolve around knacky heel hooks which suits my style, so I actually made quick progress to begin with. The moves are fun and there was a lot of beta to learn and refinement to be made, so staying psyched wasn't an issue.
I managed to climb it from a few moves in on my 4th session, linking both crux sections into the end. Unfortunately, on my next go from the start as I pulled on the pocket, I felt a tear down my forearm. That session ended abruptly there and later I found out I had an injury to the lumbricals and flexor tendon.
After a 4 month break to let my fingers recover, I started trying it again and managed to re-learn the moves quickly. For the past month I've been going frequently to gain efficiency and give myself the best chance of sending it before the crag starts to seep (which is normally around November).
I think in the end, a combination of good conditions, being rested and having the right level of focus allowed me to execute the moves really well and therefore not be too powered out for the end section. It's the most sessions I've had on a boulder so I'm really psyched to have sent it!”
Why do you think your latest senes have coincided with you having stopped competing?
I think I was able to prioritise training for Fat Lip specifically rather than my training focusing on comps, where a lot of the exercises and moves don't necessarily translate to outdoor climbing. I was also able to rest more for better quality sessions without worrying about comprising my comp climbing form and missing sessions.
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Beautiful Mind 8C FA William Bosi
William Bosi has done the FA of Beautiful Mind (8C) in Peak District. "The obvious link of the Trance start into Dandelion mind, I found this harder than Trance." (c) Sam Blackwell On Insta he says, "This is my 10th and maybe hardest 8C boulder I’ve done this year, although it’s more of a link I th…
Honey Badger 8C+ by Will Bosi
William Bosi, who the last year has done 11 8C's, has made the FA of Honey Badger 8C+ in Peak District. He calls it his hardest ever and it includes 22 moves before doing a very scary top-out, where a big foothold popped. The 23-year-old is #1 in the 8a ranking game. Last year he was #11 in the Lead…
Beautiful Mind 8C FA William Bosi
William Bosi has done the FA of Beautiful Mind (8C) in Peak District. "The obvious link of the Trance start into Dandelion mind, I found this harder than Trance." (c) Sam Blackwell On Insta he says, "This is my 10th and maybe hardest 8C boulder I’ve done this year, although it’s more of a link I th…
Honey Badger 8C+ by Will Bosi
William Bosi, who the last year has done 11 8C's, has made the FA of Honey Badger 8C+ in Peak District. He calls it his hardest ever and it includes 22 moves before doing a very scary top-out, where a big foothold popped. The 23-year-old is #1 in the 8a ranking game. Last year he was #11 in the Lead…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…