Systematic Devaluing ethics


Monday, 12 October

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now some thinks it is OK to rappel down a route or looking at a video 10 times before a flash attempt. 8a has since 2004 suggested Ethics in a traffic light theme and we have given the first 8c reported onsight a red card since, the climber had previously belayed a friend for many attempts over two days. 8a believes that as soon as you start doing something systematically or unnatural like: Downclimbing practices, Rappelling before flash, Tick marks by a friend before onsight etc it is not a valid ascent and it is a sad fact that some "world record" ascents are on the border line. When it is a natural part of the game, when you get beta, by mistake, from a friend, a topo or while being lowered it is OK. I also think it is OK to to downclimb once because of wet holds instead of ruining a 30 meter nice feeling onsight attempt?

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