Svana Bjarnason climbs Joe Blau (8c+)

Svana Bjarnason, who led the restoration work in Oliana after the big fire, has completed Joe Blau (8c+) in Oliana. The 34-year-old’s story includes an Olympic quest, injuries and a surgery eight months ago. (c) César Garcia Callariza

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
This ascent is a significant milestone for me because it’s my hardest one to date, but also because it’s an emotional comeback after a long and uncertain recovery period.

I suffer from severe deep endometriosis along with adenomyosis, which can cause heavy symptoms such as intense belly pain, uterine cramps, neuropathic pain affecting the legs and lower back, nausea, digestive issues, …

On September 12th, 2025, I underwent surgery to treat extensive deep endometriosis affecting multiple areas. At the beginning of the season, I had no clue what my body would be capable of. Besides, after surgery I thought the symptoms would be gone forever but, unfortunately, you can’t eradicate endometriosis.

Therefore I struggled (and still am struggling) the whole season, physically but also mentally. There were way too many days when pain completely changed my plans, training, mood and expectations. With this disease you never know in which state you’re gonna wake up. You never know whether you’ll be climbing hard at the crag or crying at the crag. In addition to this, I partially tore one my pulleys and I am still recovering from it, which isn’t ideal to climb at your highest level.

That’s why climbing Joe Blau means much more than a grade to me — it feels like rebuilding trust in my body and getting a small revenge on endometriosis. The day I sent, I wasn’t expecting to do it at all. I knew I was getting close but there’s a tricky section at the end and I was always sure I would fall up there a few times. Therefore it felt surreal when I clipped the chains and I immediately burst into tears. So yea, I know the journey with the disease isn’t over, but sending my first 8c+ eight months after surgery did like a first victory :)

How many sessions were needed and how was the progress?
I have no clue how many sessions but a looot haha. The long story is: I first tried the route a couple years ago, but at that time I was trying to qualify for the Olympics, so I barely climbed outdoors. Therefore I decided to project it the next season, last year. I made some progress on it, but I got injured and I think I realized I would not be strong enough to do it that season, so I chose to focus more on all my “side projects”. Therefore I actually didn’t climb on it that much. At the end of the Oliana season, I switched to plastic - competing in World Cups and European Cups - and learned I would need surgery to try and help with the endometriosis symptoms. I knew I needed to have a big goal in mind to get through all this, Joe Blau was an obvious one. Of course, I had to start with easier routes after surgery, but I quickly hopped back on Joe Blau. Along the season, I slowly got back in shape, sent some of my side projects and made good progress on the big one. With some ups and downs of course. My training plan was based on being strong enough in May to try and send, and it worked pretty well because that’s exactly what happened! I have to thank Melissa Le Neve for that (she’s my trainer) :)