27 April 2021
Stricter BMI limits in 2021: F18 and M19
In 2021, there will be Body Mass Index (BMI) screenings of all Boulder and Lead semi-finalists in all IFSC World Cups. The new stricter BMI limits will be 18 for females and 19 for males. Federations will receive a letter from the IFSC Medical Commission, requesting an explanation and the Commission will also assist with support to federations with athletes below the BMI limits.
During the last years, several top climbers have come forward talking about their eating disorders. 8a has often talked about the problem. In a 2008 article, I asked whether we should have a BMI 17 recommendation for scorecard users. Many were very critical of such a recommendation. Here are some examples of different BMI, which is calculated by dividing the body weight by the square of the height (BMI = m/hยฒ).
170 cm and 55 kg = 19 BMI
170 cm and 52 kg = 18 BMI
170 cm and 49 kg = 17 BMI
The IFSC Medical Commission has a mission to, protect & maintain the health of competing athletes on an international level as well as, to protect & maintain Sport Climbing as a safe sport. Read more about their work.
During the last years, several top climbers have come forward talking about their eating disorders. 8a has often talked about the problem. In a 2008 article, I asked whether we should have a BMI 17 recommendation for scorecard users. Many were very critical of such a recommendation. Here are some examples of different BMI, which is calculated by dividing the body weight by the square of the height (BMI = m/hยฒ).
170 cm and 55 kg = 19 BMI
170 cm and 52 kg = 18 BMI
170 cm and 49 kg = 17 BMI
The IFSC Medical Commission has a mission to, protect & maintain the health of competing athletes on an international level as well as, to protect & maintain Sport Climbing as a safe sport. Read more about their work.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ