6 July 2019

Strange rule - Unfair result for Tanii

Natsuki Tanii (15) was ranked #8 in Villars but she should have been #5. IFSC need to sit down and rewrite the + rule. Natsuki reached hold 35 but as she is very short and the hold 34 had a bigger incut she opted to several times go statically to hold 36, without getting a +. All the other, who seemed taller, did use hold 35 and as they did a movement towards the next hold they did get a +. From the picture we can see that hold 34 is closer to hold 36 and it feels very strange that you can only get a + by moving from hold 35. I mean, as she had used hold 35 and it turns out that the best sequence for her is using hold 34, this must be allowed to do so and get a +. For me this is totally unfair.
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