7 March 2013

Steve McClure (42) goes for 9b

Steve McClure has one of the most impressive FA Ticklist in the world. Out of his eight 9a and harder FA's, only Ondra has been able to repeat four, confirming all grades. They are all of high quality and completly natural. (c) Vojtech Vrzba Unrepeated: Mutation 9a: 98, Stevolution 9a: 06, New Thing 9a: 08, Finest pedigree 9a+: 10 Ondra's repeates with his comments: Rainshadow 9a, 2003: Honestly one of the best climbs I have done. Overshadow 9a+, 2007: The upper end of the grade for sure, 3 stars. Northstar 9a, 2008: 9a for tall people, harder for short ones, 3 stars. Northernlights 9a, 2010: Great power endurance testpiece, 3 stars. Now Steve, recovered from injury last year, has started to project a potential 9b which is a direct 8c extension with no rest to Rainshadow. He just trains like 2 days a week beside setting routes and coaching 2-3 days. How is it possible to contine to progress 40+, with just 2 days of training, having climbed hard since you were a child? Its all down to motivation, combined with moving in directions that have so far been untapped. Progress is difficult to measure as it really encompases many aspects, with enjoyment probably being the central component. As long as you are still having fun you are progressing. Most people think of 'progression' in terms of grades and physical improvement. In these areas, working on weaknesses often leads to progression in surprising amounts. I've spent much of my climbing life simply just climbing as and when I desired, so there are plenty of holes to fill, as long as I am motivated to fill them. Old Power-Endurance 8a Training article and here is his website.
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