Stefano Carnati completes Vicious Circle (9a+/9b)

Stefano Carnati has made the second ascent Vicious Circle (9a+) at Mišja Peč, which is a bouldery 8c+ start linking into Sanjski par extension (9a) that Adam Ondra put up in 2016. "9a+/b. 40 movements, extreme power endurance climbing with a hard crux. Broke the first hold and the entry section got slightly harder (climbed it second try before then and had to spend another two days to solve it again ), I used kneepads which helped for some rests. In my opinion, the first half itself is much harder than the second (i.e. “Sanjski par”), but the second is definitely the redpoint crux. What a process! 2nd ascent and 2nd hardest route I climbed so far!" (c) Nicholas Hobley

What was the process like on this one?
It took me 3 sessions for “Sanjki par extension”, the second half of the route, and 10 to 12 more for Vicious circle, out of which 7 at least only for the first part. During my stay in Slovenia I gradually attempted to make up this condition in order to feel up to projecting something that was continuously pushing me to my upper limit. For the nth time in my climbing career I ended up in the loop of projecting, the typical process made of progress, setbacks, pressure, vacillation and so forth affecting all lovers of the sport. But, last Saturday I found the key to break this endless loop! Now it's time for some extra slices of cake and looking forward to diving into another upcoming loop!!! My warmest thanks to all the people who made this process so enjoyable! Proud! 🙌 🍻 🍰

Last year, the 25-year-old Italian did Erebor (9b) as well as Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+). Currently, he lives in Slovenia and he's in his second year of PhD studies in environmental and chemical sciences.

How do manage climbing and your PhD program?
As I mainly work in a lab, my schedule is rather busy, so I train mostly in the evening. I generally train three days a week and climb outdoors during the weekend.

What is next now that you have done almost all the routes in Misja Pec?
I’ll be in Slovenia until May so I am really looking forward to visiting some other crags around (e. g. Ter, Čreta…). Hopefully, they will dry soon. I also left some unfinished business in Istria, but the weather went from cold and rainy to too warm in a few weeks, so I’d rather save these crags for another season.