Stefano Carnati climbs La Mola Mola (9a)

Stefano Carnati, who the last month has logged 33 boulders 8A and beyond, has done La Mola Mola in Plamproz. ”Absolute banger of a line on a beautiful bloc of banded gneiss with a limestone coating (?) right by the river. The rock quality and movement are just incredible. The easier intro leads to the main crux, with a tough heel hook and powerful compression moves that stay sustained all the way to the top. A little morpho. 10 tries spread over 3 days!” (c) Marco Zanone

Do you think your recent Boulder focus had an impact of the ascent ?
I think the recent boulder focus really helped for this one. I just came back from three weeks in Rocklands, and over the past few months I’ve mostly been bouldering. However, indoors I still kept at least one short-circuit session per week (15–20 moves), so I didn’t lose much the habit of climbing with a bit more continuity. After Rocklands, the first day I put the harness back on was in Ravoire. The routes there are pretty long and the pump felt real 😅. But then switching to La Mola Mola was way better, since it’s short, about 25–30 moves, and basically climbs like a big boulder on a rope: burly heel-hook crux, compression, and some long, reachy moves. The style suited me well. Now I’m psyched to rebuild some power endurance for the next projects!