30 November 2011

Static vs Dynamic or both

The benefit from moving static, which often the best Lead competition climbers do, is that this increases the possibility to relax one hand at the time, reducing the forearm pump. A static technique challenges more the bicep and triceps compared to when you swing dynamic between the holds. It might be a good idea to actually climb the start static and once the moves gets harder you are hopefully less pumped and can continue in a more dynamic style, just as some World Cup climbers do. The logic for this does also include that it is less tension for the upper grabbing hand to reach out to the next hold statically, compared to land on it dynamically.
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