Spring Time = Pay Attention to Loose Rock

Loose rock is one of the biggest risks for climbers. Especially after the winter season when frozen water has expanded. It's not unheard of for seemingly solid sections that have been climbed on for decades to cut loose. Chances are you've come across a loose hold or feature marked with an X. One of the challenges is very few people take the time to properly mitigate new loose sections.

Due to many new routes being put up last year, and many gym climbers climbing outside for the first time, the risk of rock fall might be higher than ever. A newcomer might go further to the side of an established route or possibly dyno to the X hold. It is important that all experienced climbers spread the word about loose rock in order to avoid bad injuries, and do what they can to mitigate them whenever possible.

Another risk is that more experienced climbers are trying old forgotten routes as they have run out of climbs at their established local crags. Just last week, I fell into this category, as I tried to top rope an old-school mixed route and suddenly a one-kilo pinch cut loose on me. After further inspection, I realized the entire section was dangerously loose, and after 30 minutes of cleaning, we had removed roughly 20 kg of rock. Pictured is a separate, loose 50 kg stone that we had to put a bolt into in order to lower it, as it was found 50 meters off the deck, and just above a trail.