2 December 2020
Sprengstoff 9a FA by Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo Larcher, one of the very best multi-discipline climbers in the world, has done the FA of Sprengstoff in Lorรผnser Wรคndle. (c) Babsi Zangerl
"The route was a project bolted by Beat almost 25 years ago and it has been tried a lot by many climbers during the last decades (the route got a little bit harder since Beat bolted it, as several holds broke off). Itโs a really cool power endurance route with a really weird shoulder move at the 3rd bolt, which is probably the crux of the route. I checked it out and tried it a bit in the past. Last fall I tried it more seriously for some days, but I always got stopped by the crux move. Last month I started working on the route again, focusing mostly on the shoulder move; luckily this year I felt more solid on that move and after a couple of more days of trying I could finish it off. I was super happy because itโs such a cool climb and a route which is somehow special for the local climbing community.
The crag is located next to a quarry, which now got the permission to extend its property and which could potentially decide to blast all the sectors :( We will get to know more about all that in the next weeks, but I really hope the local climbing comunity will find a way to preserve this beautiful and historical crag!"
"The route was a project bolted by Beat almost 25 years ago and it has been tried a lot by many climbers during the last decades (the route got a little bit harder since Beat bolted it, as several holds broke off). Itโs a really cool power endurance route with a really weird shoulder move at the 3rd bolt, which is probably the crux of the route. I checked it out and tried it a bit in the past. Last fall I tried it more seriously for some days, but I always got stopped by the crux move. Last month I started working on the route again, focusing mostly on the shoulder move; luckily this year I felt more solid on that move and after a couple of more days of trying I could finish it off. I was super happy because itโs such a cool climb and a route which is somehow special for the local climbing community.
The crag is located next to a quarry, which now got the permission to extend its property and which could potentially decide to blast all the sectors :( We will get to know more about all that in the next weeks, but I really hope the local climbing comunity will find a way to preserve this beautiful and historical crag!"
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