Sport Climbing Ethical History
1975: Kurt Albert painted red dots on the climbs he had "redpointed" in Frankenjura
1978: Jaques Nosley started bolting while rappelling in France
1980: French climbers left the gear while projecting
1985: Hang-dogging routes instead of being lowered down
1985: The use of chalk got popular
1995: Ok to onsight with quickdraws in place
2000: OK to belay and look down and later claim onsight
2005: Peak for multiple pre-clipped quickdraws and down climbing ethics
2010: Everyone has at least two pre-clipped carabiners
Here you have the original 8a ethics and practice article with some more details from 2001. The biggest problem I see and hear about today is having a tight belay stopping the swing when a climber swings out. Such ascents should not be valid even if it is not the fault of the climber.
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
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Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…