20 January 2017
Speed routes must vary!
Eddie Fowke gives his ideas for reinventing Speed climbing and I do agree but I would also like to add that the key issue for an Olympic success is to allow varied routes. In fact even the world record holder Danyl Boldyrev agrees that a fixed route is boring and actually, even in the World Championships and most of the World Cups 2016, it was not allowed to set new records as the walls were not certified.
However, the most important reason for why IFSC should go for varied routes is that only few gyms in the world have IFSC speed walls. In other words, most climbers in the world need to travel hours by car or even by plane to find a speed wall with the right angle and the holds in the right place.
In the long run it is of course much more boring just to train on the same identical route. Furthermore, it will take much more time for a climber to tune in on the fixed speed climbing route. If the routes would vary, Ondra and the crew could probably challenge the best during the Olympics. If IFSC keep the same old identical route, the top climbers still will not have a chance.
If we cannot make the best climbers want to go for the Olympics and make the event a great show, chances are low that climbing will be a part of the Games also in 2024.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


