21 August 2019

Speed progress could force Ondra to skip it

One of the biggest sensations in Hachioji was actually how much progress in Speed the Boulder/Lead specialists had made. Tomoa Narasaki set a new personal best with 6.15 which had put him #19 in Hachioji and actually #15 in Chamonix. Based on all the personal best, it might be that most of participated will go below seven seconds and Tomoa below six. It should further more be mentioned that Rishat Khaibullin does not consider himself as a Speed specialist only training that discipline once a week and thus having a personal best of 5.83. As Ondraโ€™s personal best is 7.87, it might be most productive for him to actually skip Speed training if it turns out he can not get close to seven seconds pretty soon. Another twist is that some years ago, we asked some of the best Speed climbers how fast they thought the non-specialists could run. In retro-perspective they were dead wrong and all the assumptions that Speed will be almost emberrasing to watch, as 8a also said, was dead wrong. It just might be that Narasaki could get well under six seconds in Tokyo and win all three disciplines.
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