
30 November 2019
Speed in Lead decides who go to Tokyo
Stefano Ghisolfi was the first one to Top the Lead route which later also Sascha Lehmann, Alberto Gines Lopez and Adam Ondra did. As Lopez tied Stefano's time, by the second, and later Ondra, climbing last, was the fastest, Ghisolfi lost his Olympic dream and instead finished #12.
Although there will be a final on Saturday the six spots to Tokyo are already decided as also Kokoro Fujii and Meichi Narasaki made it to the Top-8 final. The results also mean that both France and Germany have filled their max country quota as Japan did in the World Championship. Complete results
1. Adam Ondra CZE (c) Vladek Zumr
2. YueFei Pan CHN
3. Alberto Gines Lopez ESP
4. Jan Hojer GER
5. Bassa Mawem FRA
X. Kokoro Fujii JPN
6. Nathaniel Coleman USA
X. Meichi Narasaki JPN
Another dramatic example of how much impact Speed had in Lead. If Sasha had been the fastest to Top, he had made it to Tokyo instead of being #15.
4 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


