Solveig Korherr does Shogun (8c) and Lucien Cousin does Im Reich des Shogun (9a)
Can you tell us more about your and Lucien's ascents?
Last summer I moved to the Basler Jura for work but I didn’t climb there so much yet. The summer was a bit too hot. Over the winter, I spent a lot of time bouldering in Ticino. There were a few routes on my list that I wanted to try and Shogun was one of them. I got lucky that my friend Lucien who has been trying the historic line Im Reich des Shogun met up with me and could share some of his beta. Both lines share the bottom crux.
It’s a very fingery & sharp route. There is this big lock-off move to a tiny crimp and then an under cross move to a mono. I was quite surprised that I could already do all the moves on my second try and some good links on my third try on it. The best part of the day was that he sent Im Reich des Shogun at the end on his fourth try. It was very impressive to see him fight and witness the 5th ascent of this route.
This week I went back and the first two tries didn’t feel so good on it. That’s why I had no expectations on my third try but somehow fought my way to the anchor. I guess that’s when the magic happens. I’m psyched to check out the second part of „Im Reich des Shogun” in the future but for now I’m enjoying some trad climbing here in Cadarese :-)
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