20 May 2024
Soline Kentzel does Le Voyage (8b+) trad
Soline Kentzel has made the fourth female ascent of Le voyage (8b+) in Annot, after working it during five trips. Interestingly, 8b+ is also her personal best
on bolts and her resume also includes an ascent of Golden Gate, on El Capitan, in 2022. (c) Julia Cassou
"Le Voyage always had a mystical dimension in my eyes. I no longer know exactly how the desire, mixed with anxiety and curiosity, to confront it appeared, but it has been on my mind for a while. I was trying my maximum level in trad climbing the logical next step in my climbing journey? Is it pretentious? This is the feeling that comes over me, while watching a video of Babsi Zangerl, who is none other than the climber I admire the most. In any case, as I often like to say: if everything goes wrong, it would still be excellent training for my future goals.
And the first climbs confirmed my fears: dangling on the static rope, I understood nothing about climbing, and the gap between the protections seemed quite frightening. Despite everything, it was love at first sight. Firstly because it's beautiful but above all, because I realized the magnitude of the challenge this line represents for me. I realized that I dream of being a climber capable of reaching the top of this wall; and that, physically and mentally, I am not there yet. Becoming that climber, able of climbing the line of her dreams, that unique crack that escapes towards the sky, will henceforth be my reason for climbing.
When I came back the fifth time, my mindset had evolved: I arrived more humble, prepared for things not to go as planned, and found ways to reduce the pressure. some of my close friends were there, and I felt their support. Deep down, I knew this time I was here to deliver the final blow and that I wouldnโt leave without succeeding, no matter the consequences for my studies and other obligations. Finally, this time the stars aligned, or almost: on the second day, I fell with my hand in the final jug, a bit too low, probably due to a left biceps failure. No problem, I had integrated the sensations, and it was only a matter of time. When I finally linked the moves, under my friendsโ encouragement, not a grain of sand disturbed the unique sequence of this vertical precariousness. Even the run-out section after the upper crux didnโt perturb my serenity (though my legs trembled a bitโit had been a while since I left the groundโฆ). I breathed calmly before engaging in the very last section, a round and awkward crack that had caused more than one drop of sweat. Finally, I clipped the anchor, overwhelmed with immense relief: I could finally end this exclusive relationship, leaving this jewel behind. Enjoy a few moments of respite before falling again into the trap of another dream line."
"Le Voyage always had a mystical dimension in my eyes. I no longer know exactly how the desire, mixed with anxiety and curiosity, to confront it appeared, but it has been on my mind for a while. I was trying my maximum level in trad climbing the logical next step in my climbing journey? Is it pretentious? This is the feeling that comes over me, while watching a video of Babsi Zangerl, who is none other than the climber I admire the most. In any case, as I often like to say: if everything goes wrong, it would still be excellent training for my future goals.
And the first climbs confirmed my fears: dangling on the static rope, I understood nothing about climbing, and the gap between the protections seemed quite frightening. Despite everything, it was love at first sight. Firstly because it's beautiful but above all, because I realized the magnitude of the challenge this line represents for me. I realized that I dream of being a climber capable of reaching the top of this wall; and that, physically and mentally, I am not there yet. Becoming that climber, able of climbing the line of her dreams, that unique crack that escapes towards the sky, will henceforth be my reason for climbing.
When I came back the fifth time, my mindset had evolved: I arrived more humble, prepared for things not to go as planned, and found ways to reduce the pressure. some of my close friends were there, and I felt their support. Deep down, I knew this time I was here to deliver the final blow and that I wouldnโt leave without succeeding, no matter the consequences for my studies and other obligations. Finally, this time the stars aligned, or almost: on the second day, I fell with my hand in the final jug, a bit too low, probably due to a left biceps failure. No problem, I had integrated the sensations, and it was only a matter of time. When I finally linked the moves, under my friendsโ encouragement, not a grain of sand disturbed the unique sequence of this vertical precariousness. Even the run-out section after the upper crux didnโt perturb my serenity (though my legs trembled a bitโit had been a while since I left the groundโฆ). I breathed calmly before engaging in the very last section, a round and awkward crack that had caused more than one drop of sweat. Finally, I clipped the anchor, overwhelmed with immense relief: I could finally end this exclusive relationship, leaving this jewel behind. Enjoy a few moments of respite before falling again into the trap of another dream line."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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