Simone Tentori ticks Ephyra (8C+)

Simone Tentori, with seven 8C’s under his belt, has completed Ephyra (8C+) in Chironico. ”I got emotional up there... Beyond psyched to have climbed this beast.” (c) Siara Fabbri

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I start seriously trying Ephyra when Elias Iagnemma asked me to join him when he was trying in February. Before that I put my hands on the crux a couple of times with no success. Climbing with him got me really psyched and with his beta I could unlock all the moves for the first time. I perfected my way on the stand (sissyfuss 8A+) until I could do it on command all the time in a static way with the high foot. So for me it was all about the crux span move the the left pinch and piecing it together.

It was a really enjoyable process since each session I felt very relaxed and motivated just to be there trying hard. Even when I was really close I never felt the pressure to send. In the last few years I expose myself a lot on difficult boulders and I'm working hard on my mental approach and this was the perfect challange to prove that I'm going in the right direction. It was for sure my most memorable climbing moment and my hardest ascent so far.