4 March 2024
Shauna Coxsey ticks Fotofobia (8B+) in a day
Shauna Coxsey, who won eleven World Cups and stopped competing in 2021, has during a week spent in La Pedriza, sent six boulders 8A and harder including Wild Wild West, Pin y Pon (8B) and . All the more impressive, the 31-year-old mother to a toddler completed Fotofobia, which was FA'd by Ignacio Gonzalez, in a single session. (c) Talo Martin
โI was so excited to try Fotofobia! Big moves on tiny crimps on and overhanging wall... Yes! It is such an amazing piece of rock and the moves did not disappoint! I tried to climb the original line from Nacho. It seems there are a few new bigger holds at the end to the right that have been cleaned up. I decided to avoid those and stay left of the obvious seam. As for the grade, I really donโt know. It's been a while since I have climbed this grade so don't feel I am in a position to fully comment just yet. It went down pretty quickly so I am tempted to say it may be closer to 8B but I also donโt think I could design a climb to suit me more than this.โ
โI was so excited to try Fotofobia! Big moves on tiny crimps on and overhanging wall... Yes! It is such an amazing piece of rock and the moves did not disappoint! I tried to climb the original line from Nacho. It seems there are a few new bigger holds at the end to the right that have been cleaned up. I decided to avoid those and stay left of the obvious seam. As for the grade, I really donโt know. It's been a while since I have climbed this grade so don't feel I am in a position to fully comment just yet. It went down pretty quickly so I am tempted to say it may be closer to 8B but I also donโt think I could design a climb to suit me more than this.โ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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