1 June 2020

Seven 8A to 8B (A+) in Font by Max Bertone (13)

Max Bertone has had some amazing weeks after the lockdown having done seven boulders 8A or harder including A Lay's Blaise assist, in the picture, and Les Ombres d'opaline (Direct) which he thought were 8A+ and 8A respectively. His father Stefano gives some updates.

"Max is just 1,52 and the boulders in Font are not easy for small climbers. He gradually sought solutions and found specific betas to solve his extension problems. He managed to send some very nice lines and came close to send his first 8B, falling at the last movement of "Saruman bas" twice, just before the end of the trip. He was very sad to leave Font, but the heat is coming and the season is almost finished in the forest.

We stay now one month in the South East of France, near Chambery. A little bit of rest and of lead in "La Balme de Yenne". In July we may go to Innsbruck if crossing to Austria is possible. In August we don't have a program yet but we stay in Europe. We will come back to Reunion on September 3, but Margot (the twin sister of Oriane) joins us on June 16."

0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ