Set PB through a kneebar focus

A knee pad can turn a crux into a no-hands rest. Just some weeks ago, Jonathan Flor did the first repeat of an old Dani Andrada 9b calling it 9a due to kneebars. This January Adam Ondra said, "I believe professional climbers should try to reflect these facts (kneepad when it wasn’t used for the FA, new beta and others) into the grading even though they only repeat the routes and should not just take the guidebook grade for granted."

When it comes to steep climbs below 8a, kneebars are often found all over the place but very few intermediate climbers use knee pads. In other words, there is a big potential for setting grade PB for the not advanced climbers investing in a knee pad and becoming a kneebar expert. Sure, in the long run, there is a risk that the skill of using kneebars will go down in grades but then you probably have advanced to higher grades, :) Lasr year we published the story about Tor Johnson who have sent several grade PB and also suggested downgrades as he have become a kneebar expert after also having trained it in the gym.

"When I climb I always look for kneebars just as much as I look for holds. Finding a kneebar is often a game-changer when you try to send a climb that is on your limit. Kneebars is not just about resting and making moves easier. Sometimes you can do totally new sequences using a kneebar. Some people say that using kneepads are cheating as they make the climbs easier. And they are right. That is the point! The same thing was said about climbing shoes and chalk when they first came around. Nowadays it seems very strange to climb without chalk! I'm sure kneepads are here to stay and I think they should be part of any climber standard setup just like climbing shoes and chalk bags. I train my kneebar skills at least once a week. Some people say they only use kneebars when they have to. That is strange to me. Technical kneebars require a high level of skill and specific strength just like heal hooks or drop knees. If you don't practice it, there is no way you will get the most out of the kneebars when you really need them."