Sessions, tries and time ethics


Tuesday, 5 January

Onsight and Flash are the most impressive ascents as they explain a climb was done in the first try. A 2nd Go ascent means that for routes you did it after having worked it to the top once. In other words, you possibly spend 5 - 20 minutes trying different beta to find the best solutions. In regards to boulders, there is no clear definition of what second go means and it is not so often used beside when somebody actually does it on their second attempt directly after having failed to flash it. Quick boulder ascents are more often reported to have been done within 10 minutes or so.

Ascents can also be reported to have been done during a certain number of sessions, i.e. projecting a climb for one or several hours. It should be mentioned that whenever talking about how long time it took to do a climb, also the time spent on the shared part should be included. If you first do the stand start of a 7A boulder, you can never claim to have flashed the sit start of it. If you first did a 7c after several sessions and then later did another 7c exit of it during your first session, in reality also the second 7c took several sessions to do. The same thinking relates to that you should not claim an onsight or flash if you have benefitted from climbing part of the climbs before.

In the 8a Ethics and Practice, we have, however, said that you can claim an onsight or flash, "When the shared part of the climb is more than a full grade lower, i.e. a 6c start is divided into two 7c+'s." There are furthermore examples when climbers and the media have reported about semi-onsight when let us say, somebody onsighted an 8c which shared a 7c+ sequence in the start.

Remember there are no fixed set of rules or referees in climbing like in all other sports. It is the climbing community that has created the "rules" and as a matter of a fact, they sometimes change. At the beginning of the sport climbing era, you were supposed to place your own quickdraws in order to claim an onsight. Some say you are not allowed to touch the holds on a boulder you can reach from the ground and then call it a flash meanwhile others think you can do so and then actually onsight a boulder.

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Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …